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This was Jax yesterday. Head high, perfect and cold. I wasn't there. I am thinking about surfing and days gone by. Fifteen years ago, nothing would have stopped me from being in this picture. Hopefully the neck will the thaw out this spring and I will get a few. Even though I haven't been a core surfer for many years, I still mourn every swell that that breaks without me.
W.B.Z.N.