I haven't surfed since pipeline came to Mexico Beach via Katrina. I caught ten waves that day. I only got to the bottom of three, of those I made one. Seeing Big Worm scared to death and our buddy Loui go over the falls was worth the trip.
This was Jax yesterday. Head high, perfect and cold. I wasn't there. I am thinking about surfing and days gone by. Fifteen years ago, nothing would have stopped me from being in this picture. Hopefully the neck will the thaw out this spring and I will get a few. Even though I haven't been a core surfer for many years, I still mourn every swell that that breaks without me.