Monday, August 24, 2009

Dancing On The Jetty




There is a certain smell the east coast gets, when the Atlantic has been stirred up by swell. It is a mixture of salt water, sea weed and tar. The sand is mixed and coarse under your feet. There are more surfers than tourists. Even those not tuned in to the surf station, know that something is different. They look out at the waves and wonder what it would be like to be way out there.




We arrived at dropping tide, around noon. I figured after two days of macking surf, the locals would all be elsewhere trying to get their jobs back. There was still plenty of swell when we unloaded. Lil Wrecking Ball and my Bro Davey got out of the car looking at postcard Huguenot; blue water and sky with perfect chest to head high rights, licked by a slight off shores. I set up camp and gave L.W.B. his board, Davey went with him dragging his 9'6".




After the umbrella was hoisted, the sheet was anchored, and the coolers were parked in the shade, I grabbed my yellowed 7'2" and waded out. I caught a nice little right, and it was lined up so perfect, I just stood and trimmed for a few yards. I caught three more and L.W.B. made it outside to sit with the big boys. Davey paddled for a big one and went over the falls rodeo style. L.W.B. and I caught one together and he fell because he was laughing so hard. I pushed him into another and he fell on the take off, and got dragged for fifteen yards before coming up, hands first, laughing. We all caught a few more, and cruised in to recharge.




We sat and ate sandwiches, and L.W.B. asked why I was so happy. I told him the beach was the only place I felt totally comfortable. He turned back out to the waves and pointed and talked a hundred miles and hour. He skim boarded, rode his Boogie board and stayed in the water until I had loaded the car and started it.




It could not have been a better day, except I missed having number one son and Mama there. He was stung by a Man-o-war on his last trip and it will take a bag of video games to get him back in the water. Mama doesn't see the logic in five hours of drive time for three hours of beach. Go figure. You can't have perfection, it angers the Gods.




I am a surfer. I had forgotten that.




W.B.Z.N. *Pics from: http://www.mrsurfs.com/

8 comments:

juancho said...

Wait, how many damn kids do you have? Is Corey also LWB? Are you hiding a child? And does he look like Bigworm?

Ms. Moon said...

That was beautiful. I am no surfer but I do know that smell. And that feel, too, of the beach when things are, as you say, stirred up.

Human Wrecking Ball said...

Juancho I know its been a while since I have said this...BASTARD!!!!!
Thanks Sister Moon....did I mention J. is a BASTARD!

BIGWORM said...

Well, he is about my height...but the similarities stop there, luckily for him.

I wondered about the I am a surfer part. The last time I surfed was with you. Before that, it was sporadic at best. I have not consistently chased waves for 10 years or more. At what point does "I'm a surfer" go away? For the record, I'm missing it more lately, than I have in a long time.

Human Wrecking Ball said...

Next swell Hoss. I got the bug again. How cool would it be to get Juancho and Mag out there? I am not saying they can ride with us but..... we could like, meet them there or Ya know..... compare pictures later or something.

The Old Bag said...

awesome day -- pure joy!

juancho said...

Here's what would happen. I would volunteer to drive. Once we got to the beach you would exit the van, break off my antenna, steal my wallet and write GO HOME KOOK! on my windshield.

It would be just like old times at Sebastian Inlet.

Magnum said...

I'm in.

Worm, no, it doesn't go away, it might take huge breaks, but it doesn't go away.