I haven't surfed since pipeline came to Mexico Beach via Katrina. I caught ten waves that day. I only got to the bottom of three, of those I made one. Seeing Big Worm scared to death and our buddy Loui go over the falls was worth the trip.This was Jax yesterday. Head high, perfect and cold. I wasn't there. I am thinking about surfing and days gone by. Fifteen years ago, nothing would have stopped me from being in this picture. Hopefully the neck will the thaw out this spring and I will get a few. Even though I haven't been a core surfer for many years, I still mourn every swell that that breaks without me.
W.B.Z.N.
9 comments:
Sounds like your soul is yearning for whatever it is that surfing gives it.
Do it, WB.
I've had several very good friends that were surfers. All of them had the same deep commitment to the waves. They might have been bikers, golfers, climbers, smokers, etc., but nothing compared to waves when it came to what stirred their juices. If it was swelling, they were surfing, all other elements and commitments be damned. I've only stood on a board a couple of times but as much as I love water and body surfing, if I had ever had a real go at it I'm sure I would have become a core surfer too. I sometimes regret having flunked out at Auburn when I could have flunked out at Flagler. Perhaps I will retire one day where the breaks call my name in the morning.
One thing about surfing is, it assualts your senses. The smell of the wax, water,and unrinsed wetsuits. The wind, sand, the taste of the ocean. You tie all that with the memories of great days and it's vivid.
I'm feel the itch of limb that isn't there.
Sniff, sniff.
w.b.
Sadly all that passion has not made my spelling any better. Is there a way to spell check comments?
jeez.
My stepmom once said, after another job was lost due to extended dawn patrol, that "one day when you don't surf, you'll understand".
I was soooo shocked! "one day when I DON'T surf"? What the french, toast!
Nowadays, I don't surf and what? I'm angered easily, I'm out of shape, I'm stressed, I'm happy? with a good job in the city, working for the man every night and day...I understand, too well.
So, let's get over there, I'll pretend I'm Fletcher and you can pretend it's double overhead.
As a bike blog, this site reall sucks.
see you at surf camp!
Come on Juancho, we'll go over with these other two rock stars. I'll see if my feet can still find the deck, and we'll get you one of those cute little pink blow up rings at the convienience store. I mean, its not like you'll miss a ride or something....
Whoa, I'll have to borrow Robin Master's Jeep if Rick and TC are coming.
F- that lets take the Island Hoppers Helli to the mysto secret spot.
W.b.
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