Monday, January 28, 2008

Head High and Choppy

North Jetty was a tough place to learn how to surf. The convented first peak was controlled by a crotchety group of aging hippies, Vietnam vets and red necks that weren't really interested in passing the torch to the next generation. I surfed there for twenty five years and I was never excepted by the Jetty Rats.
For this reason, my best friend Rob and I took to surfing in conditions no one else would consider. If it was one foot or less, we would remove our fins and do 360's in the shore break. If the tide was wrong and the sun was directly over head, we were on it. Our favorite thing of all was big, cold, blown out surf. We loved walking over sand with no prints, and paddling for thirty minutes to get big doubled up, closing out, wind chop. At some point during every session a weird series of events would occur and we would get a wave that was worth it.
Back in the empty parking lot we would do the towel dance out of our wetsuits. Back in the safety of my VW bus, and wearing jeans and Billibong sweat shirts, we would bask in the exhaust laden heat and head to the 7-11. Life was sweet.
It was the memory of this that got me into the car and headed to Munson on Saturday. It was drizzling and cold and the parking lot was empty. I got lost on the twilight loop and it took a while to find a familiar site. One hour and a half later, I was back in the car, and I had a strange craving for Beebo doughnuts and Mountain Dew.

6 comments:

juancho said...

Well, well, well, look at this fantastic website. I face the same dilemma of a Ft. Pierce surf punk looking at an out-of-towner's VW Bug. What do I vandalize first?

Human Wrecking Ball said...

How did you find me? You are watching me right now aren't you?
Mommy I'm Scared!

juancho said...

BW knows all.

Magnum said...

I was at the jetty several times, we left the car open to avoid window breaks and I had a manatee (save them, not the county) tag to confuse the locals-which was easy generally.

And yes, close-out surf made you stronger; just never go for the first one in the set.

Human Wrecking Ball said...

For the record I never vandalized any cars. I just didn't let you out of town kooks get any waves. How did that make you feel?

Magnum said...

Yeah it was tough, I assumed that it was seawater draining from my sinus over the plate of food-perhaps those were tears