My Brothers and I surfed this place for ten days. This shot gives you a little better of idea of the line up and paddle. Looks like a real good six foot and hollow day. This place is considered a good "Beginner" spot.
I read about La Liberdad in "Searching for Captain Zero" by Allan Weisbecker. I saw pictures of it in Surfer Magazine but, they never named the spot. It took some googling but we found it.
The best Salvadorian surfer is a local named, Jimmy Rotherham. He was mentioned in the book as well. The week we were there, he was on the cover of Surfing Magazine. We met him and gave him our copy, as he hadn't seen it yet. He was a really nice guy. Kelly Slater (multi world title surfer) called him "one of the best surfers he had ever seen."
I got food poisoning the third day and ate one power bar a day for four days. I was able to surf, but I was not a happy gringo.
We had an epic time.
My brother Dennis broke his collar bone Friday, skiing. I am thinking of you bro, feel better, lets plan a trip!
W.B.Z.N.
4 comments:
How appropriate. The older brother that you never see, finally sees you and snaps a memory. Nice. One day, that photo will be the one thing that lets you paddle through your past. What a great gift. Thanks, bro.
The last image looks like Laniakea at 8 a.m. Musta been a dream week, outside the food poisoning. Yeah, I remember that 6'8". Ben Aipa remembers that one too. Two crazy haoles dat spend da kine. Shakkah.
'Nuf surf talk. Back to waxing poetic.
Ksurf!!!
I am so stoked you are checking in. Feel free to call b.s. on me if I get anything wrong about our stories. Let me know if you want to do a guest post, the more embarassing the better. Stick around.
W.B.Z.N.
Wrecking Ball,
I have been enjoying the surf posts. I haunted 10th street in Atlantic Beach in the early 80's. From 1980 to 1985 I probably surfed close to everyday. I don't care if it was 1 foot or blown-out nor'easter, me and my crew were out there. We also entered pretty much every local contest. The poles, the pier, wherever. Down as far as New Smyrna or Cocoa. I surfed against Sean Slater (Kelly's older brother) and lost. Then I moved to upstate New York and learned to ski. My senior year in high school I went out for the ski team and skiied everyday. Over 100 times that winter including meets. In any case, now I live in Michigan so it's good to hear the stories and see the pictures. Keep em comin.
Dr. D
Thanks Man,
I may have seen you at some ESA contests during that time. I got waxed at Pat's pier in 85, and decided it was better to go home and get trophies in my district!
I am assembling some photos for a future post. I will be the vicitm of some fashion jabs, but hey those polka dot quiksilvers were rad in the day!
w.b.
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